What happens when… That tantalizing question is the basis for an exciting temporary restaurant experiment in New York City. It’s also the name of the restaurant. What Happens When will be open for nine months and will completely transform its menu, its look and even its sound once a month. At the end of nine months, the building housing the SoHo restaurant will be torn down.
Opening even one restaurant is incredibly hard work, with tons of risk involved. What would possess someone to attempt nine restaurants in nine months in the same space?
For John Fraser, chef/owner of the Michelin-starred Dovetail on New York’s Upper West Side, the enforced expiration date means freedom. Permanent restaurants by their very nature must have reliable continuity—even those that continually change their menus have to stay within a certain framework of cuisine and atmosphere to build an identity, a following and staying power.
At What Happens When, patrons won’t merely allow Fraser to experiment and completely change things up—they’ll expect it. So he’s free to be inventive and focus totally on the food, not on pleasing regulars and investors with familiar favorites. The designers and soundscape artists behind the venture will enjoy the same freedom to experiment. To see the first incarnation of the recently opened What Happens When, check out my latest post at the USA Character Approved Blog.
Fascinating! Kind of like restaurant performance art. Sounds like fun for diner and restaurateur alike. On the other hand, I’d feel so sad if one of them turned out to be exactly what I’d been hoping for and then…poof! It’s gone. But in a city like New York, I’d probably find one or two other decent places to salve my gastronomic wounds. Thanks for the very cool heads up, Terry.
Ronnie Ann, I think Fraser’s point here is to not create familiar, comfortable foods and spaces that you’d want to return to again and again, but rather to create never-to-be-repeated experiences that people will be telling friends they were there for. And you’re right about the NYC restaurant scene—you can find everything from cheap take-out to comfortable places filled with regulars to the newest of the new.
Love your description: (Fraser wants) “to create never-to-be-repeated experiences that people will be telling friends they were there for”
Ah…then it is most definitely restaurant performance art! Maybe you’ll get to come see one of his shows?
Ah, that would be nice, Ronnie Ann. Even if we got to New York, though, reservations might be tough to score.
How exciting. Can’t imagine the work involved! It will be packed for 9 months, of that I am sure. What a great reso to be able to score.