A vegetarian spin on a Southern classic: Gruyere Grits with Roasted Broccoli

Stone-ground grits are loaded with gruyere, butter and cream, and topped with roasted broccoli instead of shrimp. Recipe below.

I’VE BEEN ON A BROCCOLI TEAR LATELY, looking for new or at least newish ways to fix this old dependable. The other day, I happened to run across a recipe for pasta with a sauce loaded with gruyere, and with steamed broccoli mixed in at the last. As we say at our house, that was not without interest, but somehow the pasta side of this seemed overwhelming. That was when I opened the fridge door and saw the bag of Geechie Boy Mill white grits I’d ordered a little while back, just sitting on the door waiting patiently.

There are a lot of ways to think about grits. First of all, they are one of the quintessential American foods. Corn originated in the Americas and it is now thought that it was being stone-milled thousands of years ago. That is, grits are one of the few ancient foods we can have today in a form probably close to that ancient original. When early British colonists came to Virginia, some say that the Muscogee Indians shared this food with them, and the colonists dubbed it “grist,” a name that corroded over time to: grits. Grits were easy to produce, easy to cook, a cheap food that, in plantations across the South, became a staple ration for enslaved people. And over time, a staple of the southern kitchen.

Grits remained a regional dish for a long time. I had heard of it, but I never really had it until taking up with Terry, who has piles of relatives in the South. Some time in the mid-80s, grits—in its awesomest form, laden with cheese—burst into the mainstream when the New York Times published the cheese grits and shrimp recipe of North Carolina chef Bill Neal. The years since have seen the revival of heirloom varieties of corn and the rise of artisanal small-batch millers producing brilliant stone-grounds grits.

This recipe depends on stone-ground grits; cooked in this fashion, instant grits would just turn into paste.  To be clear, we still enjoy quick-cooking grits—they are perfect for when you are in a big hurry or feeling a bit under the weather and need something smooth and soft and mild. But traditional stone-ground grits are not that much more work, and they have a toothy texture and a forthright honesty that is just delightful.

This time, we used Geechie Boy Mill white grits, grown and stone ground on Edisto Island, South Carolina. Once I use up that supply, I will be exploring other artisan brands, such as Palmetto Farms, Old School, and Marsh Hen Mill.

And, finally because I’ve been on this broccoli tear lately, I decided not to go with the classic accompaniment of shrimp.

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Gruyere Grits with Roasted Broccoli

Stone-ground grits, loaded with gruyere, butter and cream, and topped with roasted broccoli, are a delicious vegetarian spin on a Southern classic.

Course Main Course, Side Dish

Cuisine Southern

Servings 3 to 4

Ingredients

For the grits:

• 5 cups water
• 1-1/2 cups stone-ground grits (see Kitchen Notes)
• 1 teaspoon salt
• 1/2 cup cream
• 4 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into pieces
• 4 – 5 ounces Gruyere cheese, shredded, divided

For the broccoli:

• 10 – 12 ounce head of broccoli
• 2 cloves garlic
• olive oil

Instructions

• First, quick soak the grits. Put the grits, water and salt in a big heavy pot. Bring to a boil, stir, turn off the heat, cover it and let it just sit there for 15 minutes.
• While the grits are quick soaking, prepare the butter and cheese and leave out, so it is at room temperature when you start assembling things.
• Meanwhile, roast the broccoli. Trim the florets off the stalks and cut into bite-sized pieces. Toss them with lots of olive oil and spread them out on a well-oiled baking sheet (we used a 1/2-sheet hotel tray). Crush a couple of big cloves of garlic, cut them into a few pieces each and scatter around on the backing sheet. Roast broccoli at 425ºF for about 20 – 25 minutes, or until nicely golden brown.
• After the 15-minute quick soak, turn on the heat under the pot of grits, low. Add in the 1/2 cup cream. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat and simmer. Stir the grits often—I recommend using a wooden spoon—to keep them from sticking. If it looks like things are getting too dry or like they just want to stick to the bottom, add a little more water or cream or some milk.
• Meanwhile, check the broccoli. It will be done when it is fork-tender and lightly browned.
• The grits will be done when pretty much all the liquid has been absorbed and they are al dente—tender but still a little toothy. Add the butter and almost all of the cheese—save a little for garnish. Stir until everything is melted and well mixed.
• Serve in soup plates or bowls, topped with the extra cheese and the broccoli.

Kitchen Notes

Buying grits. Freshness matters when it comes to stone-ground grits. They're at their freshest ordered direct from the miller, not an online marketplace or bricks-and-mortar shop. If you do buy in a grocery store, choose one that has a steady turnover to ensure freshness.

Other toppings. Yes, you can use these grits as the foundation for lots of other toppings: Julia Child’s mushrooms; any roasted vegetables (try it with roasted tomatoes); a dollop of a very thick meaty ragu; a poached or fried egg; or, of course, grilled shrimp or pulled pork. Yes, you can add more cheese on top if you like. Also yes, you can use cheddar instead. I recommend extra sharp. And also also yes, you can straight up eat it as is with no additions. It is divine.

Leftovers. These will keep for three or four days, covered in an airtight container in the fridge. To reheat, add a little milk or water and heat slowly, stirring, on the stovetop or in a couple of stages in the microwave, also stirring. And I don’t recommend saving leftover broccoli. Just eat it all. Freshly roasted broccoli is wonderful.

Gluten? Nope. Grits are gluten free. They also offer an array of micronutrients like folate, niacin, and vitamin B.