There are countless regional variations on Pasta alla Carreterria; this is how it’s done in Rome. Recipe below.
WHEN IT COMES TO COOKBOOKS, I AM LOOKING FOR TWO THINGS: an interesting read, and one good, enduring recipe. I don’t expect a cookbook to be jam-packed with dozens of recipes I will be able to use forever and ever. If I can get one useful dish from a cookbook, that makes it worthwhile, and if it is also fun to read, then it’s totally paid for itself.
That said, one of my favorite everyday cookbooks is Julia della Croce’s Roma: Authentic Recipes from In and Around the Eternal City. From time to time, I take it off the shelf, just to have a look, and every time I do, I find something new to me to try. Everything in this book is simple, even minimalist, and everything is delicious, and the writing is concise, friendly and informative.
Julia della Croce says of pasta alla carreterria that there are so many hundreds of different versions of it “that it is impossible to figure out what the original ingredients were.” Indeed, a baffling spectrum of pasta dishes are called alla carrettiera—carter’s pasta, named for the workers who transported foodstuffs and wine from the countryside into town. The variations are approximately regional—Sicilian style tends to feature anchovies, Tuscan style tends to feature tomatoes and hot peppers.
This recipe is in the Roman style, featuring dried mushrooms, tomato and canned tuna packed in olive oil. It’s one of those things you can knock together in under an hour (including the leisurely soaking of the mushrooms). Its long, winding history is also a message for you: start by following the recipe to learn the ropes, but don’t fear variations. Use different sorts of dried mushrooms; use fresh mushrooms; omit the mushrooms. Add olives or a scattering of chives. In the summer, toss in some fresh basil. Use Rotel spicy canned tomatoes. Have fun with it. It’s going to be very useful for you.
By the way, all the classic variations on this dish have in common that they do not include cheese. But you can, if you like.
Roma: Authentic Recipes from In and Around the Eternal City was originally published in 2004. Chances are good you can find it in a used bookstore or online. Chances are also good that if you do so, you’ll be glad.
Pasta alla Carreterria
Ingredients
- 1 ounce dried mushrooms—porcini, boletes, shiitake
- 1/2 cup hot water
- 2 tablespoons olive oil
- 2–4 large cloves garlic, minced
- 1/4 cup tomato paste
- 1 15-ounce can diced tomatoes
- 1/2 pound linguine (you can also use spaghetti)
- 1 5-ounce can Italian tuna packed in olive oil
- salt and freshly ground black pepper
Instructions
- First, put the dried mushrooms in a heatproof bowl and cover with hot water. Soak the mushrooms until they soften and plump up—probably about half an hour. Remove the mushrooms from the water, chop them coarsely (unless they are already in smallish pieces) and set them aside; reserve the soaking water.
- Start a pot of salted water for cooking the pasta.
- In a deep, heavy skillet, heat the olive oil to medium-low. Then sauté the garlic for just a minute. Add the tomato paste and a few tablespoons of the mushroom liquid, then the canned tomatoes (include the juice from the can). Stir and simmer until the sauce is thickened—about 10 minutes. If it seems too thick, thin with mushroom liquid or some water—even the pasta cooking water.
- Cook the pasta—add the linguine to boiling water, stir well so the pasta doesn’t clump together, and cook to al dente. Drain, reserving some of the cooking water.
- While the pasta is cooking, flake the canned tuna with a fork and add it to the tomato pan. Add in the olive oil from the can too! Stir and heat everything together gently for a minute or so. Taste and adjust the seasoning with salt and black pepper. If the pasta is not ready yet, keep the sauce warm over a very low flame.
- Add the cooked, al dente pasta to the sauce. Toss well, adding a little of the cooking water, if needed, and serve at once.
I’ve never heard of this dish — shame on me! It’s looks excellent. Great pantry dish (we usually have dried mushrooms on hand, and always have everything else). Really nice — thanks.