Life in the time of shuttered restaurants, long walks and embracing home cooking

Some thoughts on life and food right now, and five simple, comforting recipes.

Martin's Corner Chcago
Martin’s Corner Bar & Grill, Pilsen, Chicago

THE OTHER NIGHT ON OUR NEIGHBORHOOD WALK, Marion said two things she was missing most right now were us getting in the car and going to see one of our daughters—both live driving distance away—and the two of us going to some little place for cocktails and dinner. A place like Martin’s Corner. Continue reading “Life in the time of shuttered restaurants, long walks and embracing home cooking”

Simple comfort when we need it most: Tuscan Lentil and White Bean Soup

Tuscan Lentil and White Bean Soup is delicious, comforting, infinitely flexible—vegetarian, not vegetarian—and easy to make from what you have on hand. Recipe below.

Tuscan Lentil and White Bean Soup
Tuscan Lentil and White Bean Soup

SHELTER IN PLACE. Enough has been said about how we got to this strange time and place that I don’t need to add anything here. But suddenly, more of us are cooking at home than ever, oftentimes with what we have at hand. Partly, of course, it is by necessity. But many of us are taking comfort in cooking. Continue reading “Simple comfort when we need it most: Tuscan Lentil and White Bean Soup”

Two distinctly French ingredients flavor Dijon and Cognac Beef Stew

Cognac and two Dijon mustards flavor this rich, hearty classic French stew. Recipe below.

Dijon and Cognac Beef Stew
Dijon and Cognac Beef Stew

LOOK UP CARNIVOROUS FRANCOPHILE in the dictionary and you’ll probably see my picture. Okay, it’s not a real dictionary term, but it should be. The French are particularly good at taking humble cheap cuts of meat—beef chuck roast, for instance—and slow cooking them into something spectacular. Dijon and Cognac Beef Stew is a perfect example. Continue reading “Two distinctly French ingredients flavor Dijon and Cognac Beef Stew”

Easy, subtle comfort: Cream of Belgian Endive Soup

Belgian endives, leeks, onions, celery and cream are the basis for this delicately flavored traditional Belgian soup. Recipe below.

Cream of Belgian Endive Soup
Cream of Belgian Endive Soup

SOME YEARS AGO, MARION AND HER SISTER VISITED PARIS REGULARLY. On one trip, they also went to Belgium. Marion said they ate better there than any place they had eaten in Paris. So when I recently discovered the apparently appropriately named Everybody Eats Well in Belgium Cookbook, I was intrigued, to say the least. Continue reading “Easy, subtle comfort: Cream of Belgian Endive Soup”

Hold the garlic for traditional Amatriciana sauce

Guanciale (or pancetta), onion, canned Italian tomatoes and Pecorino Romano—but no garlic—are the basic ingredients for Amatriciana sauce, a simple Italian favorite. Recipe below.

Spaghetti with Amatriciana Sauce
Spaghetti All’ Amatriciana

[su_dropcap style=”flat”]T[/su_dropcap]o me, garlic is deeply ingrained in Italian cuisine. So much so that every single time I make Lidia Bastianich’s Ziti with Sausage and Fennel, I’m surprised to remember that it has no garlic. Turns out Italians have a much more nuanced relationship with this fragrant Allium. Continue reading “Hold the garlic for traditional Amatriciana sauce”

Shop and store right to keep spices fresher longer

A quick guide to buying spices—in-store and online—and to properly storing them.

The Spice Shop, Paolo Antonio Barbieri, 1637

SPICES AND THEIR AROMATIC BRETHREN, HERBS, are key tools for turning food into cuisine, for giving dishes a major part of their identity. Besides using them wisely, knowing how and where to shop for them—and how to store them when you’re not using them—can make a huge difference in your cooking. Here are some tips. Continue reading “Shop and store right to keep spices fresher longer”

A Korean staple flavors perfect-for-winter Gochujang Chicken and Cauliflower

Gochujang—a readily available Korean pepper paste—teams up with ginger, garlic and lime juice to create a lively sauce for roasted chicken and cauliflower. Recipe below.

Gochujang Chicken and Cauliflower

TO US, THE BEST WAY TO ROAST A WHOLE CHICKEN is to not roast a whole chicken, but to roast chicken parts. So when Marion came across a promising recipe for a slow-roasted whole chicken featuring a gochujang sauce, we broke it down to thighs and drumsticks. Continue reading “A Korean staple flavors perfect-for-winter Gochujang Chicken and Cauliflower”

Is drunk cooking even a thing? It can be: Midnight Spaghetti

Olive oil, garlic, capers, anchovy fillets, red pepper flakes, Parmesan and parsley create a simple, lively sauce for late-night pasta. Recipe below.

Midnight Spaghetti

MIDNIGHT SPAGHETTI HAD US AT THE NAME. It just sounds like something that comes together quickly with things you have on hand. Something you can actually do after a night out involving wine or cocktails, and even if the wine is still flowing while you cook. When it’s midnight and you’re suddenly hungry, but for something cooler than drive thru fare. Continue reading “Is drunk cooking even a thing? It can be: Midnight Spaghetti”