Hummus, served Southern style: Hoppin’ John Black-Eyed Pea Butter

Black-eyed peas stand in for chickpeas in this delicious Southern take on hummus. Recipe below.

Who doesn’t love hummus? This now-ubiquitous Middle Eastern staple has become nearly a staple in homes around the globe. According to the USA Dry Pea & Lentil Council, an estimated 25 percent of US households regularly stock hummus (as of 2016). There are many variations on this dish, perhaps none as interesting as one that swaps black-eyed peas for chickpeas.

What chickpeas are to Middle Eastern cuisine, black-eyed peas are to the American South. They are a traditional food with a storied past. And eating them on New Year’s Day is said to bring good luck. Nutritionally, they hold their own against chickpeas, providing almost as much protein, fiber, and vitamins and minerals ounce for ounce.

Compared to the nutty flavor of chickpeas, black-eyed peas have a creamier, earthy taste. Both blend beautifully with tahini, cumin and garlic to create a delicious, versatile spread, whether you call it hummus or, in this case, a butter.

Marion based this recipe on one she found in The Southern Vegetarian Cookbook, a delightful cookbook we reviewed in 2013 when we made their delicious (and deceptively vegetarian) Drop Biscuits and Vegetarian Red Eye Gravy. She’s made Hoppin’ John Black-Eyed Pea Butter a few times now to serve as a starter for dinner guests. It’s been a hit every time.

Hoppin’ John Black-Eyed Pea Butter
Adapted from The Southern Vegetarian
Makes about 1-1/4 cups

1 15-1/2-ounce can black-eyed peas
1 garlic clove, chopped (see Kitchen Notes)
2 tablespoons olive oil
1/2 teaspoon ground coriander
1/8 – 1/4 teaspoon ground cumin
1 tablespoon lemon juice
1 tablespoon tahini
1/4 teaspoon coarse-ground black pepper
1/2 teaspoon salt (or to taste—we used Maldon)
at least 2 teaspoons hot sauce (see Kitchen Notes)

Drain the black-eyed peas—be sure to reserve the liquid. Set aside a few whole peas. Pour the rest into your food processor or blender.

Heat the olive oil in a small nonstick skillet. Add the coriander, cumin and garlic, and sauté for a minute or two. Pour everything from the pan into the  blender. Add the lemon juice and tahini, the salt, pepper and the hot sauce. Process all of this until it is smooth. If it is too thick, add a dash of the bean liquid and a bit more tahini or olive oil, then process again. Go carefully. You want this to be easy to serve and spread, but not so loose that it becomes soupy.

To serve, spoon into a small bowl, crock or ramekin—whatever you think will be fetching—and smooth the top a bit. Take the peas that you set aside at the start and arrange them on top. This is easiest to serve at room temperature—when it’s cold, it’s rather stiff, so be sure to take it out of the fridge an hour or so before serving. Serve with crackers or baguette toasts.

Kitchen Notes

Garlic or no? You can prepare this without the garlic if you prefer.

Spice things up. If you like things tangy, add more hot sauce (but don’t forgo hot sauce completely—it really livens this dish up). We’ve made this with Cholula hot sauce, available everywhere, and with Tree hot sauce from Chicago’s Dia de los Tamales. Use your favorite.