Category: Soups and Stews

Tasting history: West African Groundnut Stew

From the cookbook Jubilee: Recipes from Two Hundred Years of African American Cooking, this comforting stew features chicken, aromatics, tomatoes, spices and peanut butter. Recipe below.

West African Groundnut Stew
West African Groundnut Stew

IF YOU’RE A READER OF FOOD BLOGS, YOU PROBABLY ALSO HAVE COOKBOOKS. Maybe even a fairly impressive collection. By her own count, Toni Tipton-Martin has “rescued nearly 400 Black cookbooks—many of them rare—dating back to 1827.” To Tipton-Martin, a James Beard Book Award-winning food and nutrition journalist, these are more than cookbooks. They are a history of African Americans, primarily women, told through the filter of food and the kitchen. Continue reading “Tasting history: West African Groundnut Stew” →

Fennel seed finesses Instant Pot Pork and Cabbage Stew

Pork, cabbage and potatoes create a hearty, peasanty stew; fennel seed subtly elevates it. Recipe below.

Instant Pot Pork and Cabbage Stew
Instant Pot Pork and Cabbage Stew

IT IS NOW DAY WHATEVER IN THE SHUTDOWN, and we are still self-isolating. I said three weeks ago that we hadn’t been inside any building that is not our house for some time. That remains true. We also have not eaten anything that was not cooked by one of us. I’m happy to report that we are okay with that. Continue reading “Fennel seed finesses Instant Pot Pork and Cabbage Stew” →

Simple comfort when we need it most: Tuscan Lentil and White Bean Soup

Tuscan Lentil and White Bean Soup is delicious, comforting, infinitely flexible—vegetarian, not vegetarian—and easy to make from what you have on hand. Recipe below.

Tuscan Lentil and White Bean Soup
Tuscan Lentil and White Bean Soup

SHELTER IN PLACE. Enough has been said about how we got to this strange time and place that I don’t need to add anything here. But suddenly, more of us are cooking at home than ever, oftentimes with what we have at hand. Partly, of course, it is by necessity. But many of us are taking comfort in cooking. Continue reading “Simple comfort when we need it most: Tuscan Lentil and White Bean Soup” →

Two distinctly French ingredients flavor Dijon and Cognac Beef Stew

Cognac and two Dijon mustards flavor this rich, hearty classic French stew. Recipe below.

Dijon and Cognac Beef Stew
Dijon and Cognac Beef Stew

LOOK UP CARNIVOROUS FRANCOPHILE in the dictionary and you’ll probably see my picture. Okay, it’s not a real dictionary term, but it should be. The French are particularly good at taking humble cheap cuts of meat—beef chuck roast, for instance—and slow cooking them into something spectacular. Dijon and Cognac Beef Stew is a perfect example. Continue reading “Two distinctly French ingredients flavor Dijon and Cognac Beef Stew” →

Easy, subtle comfort: Cream of Belgian Endive Soup

Belgian endives, leeks, onions, celery and cream are the basis for this delicately flavored traditional Belgian soup. Recipe below.

Cream of Belgian Endive Soup
Cream of Belgian Endive Soup

SOME YEARS AGO, MARION AND HER SISTER VISITED PARIS REGULARLY. On one trip, they also went to Belgium. Marion said they ate better there than any place they had eaten in Paris. So when I recently discovered the apparently appropriately named Everybody Eats Well in Belgium Cookbook, I was intrigued, to say the least. Continue reading “Easy, subtle comfort: Cream of Belgian Endive Soup” →

A vegetarian Okra Stew offers balancing, restorative powers

This traditional, vegetarian Sudanese stew of okra, tomatoes, onion, garlic and cinnamon, topped with cinnamon-flavored couscous, is perfect for re-energizing—or just enjoying. Recipes below.

Alek Wek’s Balancing Okra Stew

[su_dropcap style=”flat” size=”3″]T[/su_dropcap]his refreshing, healthy recipe is by the model, author and Goodwill Ambassador to the United Nations High Commissioner for Refugees, Alek Wek. A traditional Sudanese dish, it originally appeared in the New York Times in 2018, part of its occasional My Detox series. Continue reading “A vegetarian Okra Stew offers balancing, restorative powers” →

Have a happy, lucky new year: Black-eyed Pea Soup with Thyme

Black-eyed Pea Soup with Thyme

I ONLY REALIZED WELL INTO CHRISTMAS DAY that I hadn’t done a post for last week. Christmas day is when it would have posted. New Year’s Eve, I found myself practically in the same boat. But then I remembered a dish that could bring you luck in the new year, Black-eyed Pea Soup with Thyme. Black-eyed peas are apparently chock full of luck if you eat them on New Year’s Day. And while fresh ones are delicious, you can also use canned. Whether you manage to eat some black-eyed peas or not (in this recipe or another), have a wonderful, luck-filled new year.

Big on comfort, easy on the heat: Tomatillo Chicken/Turkey Chili

The traditional bowl of red turns green and lightens up, as tomatillos replace tomatoes and chicken and turkey stand in for beef. Recipe below.

TOmatillo Chicken Turkey Chili

[su_dropcap style=”flat”]C[/su_dropcap]hili. For many, it’s over-the-top flavor pyrotechnics. Or “I dare you” fiery hot. To us, chili is comfort food. Like a good stew or soup. Subtle complexity rather than giant flavors, heartily satisfying. You know, comforting. This tomatillo-based turkey/chicken chili checks all those boxes and then some. Continue reading “Big on comfort, easy on the heat: Tomatillo Chicken/Turkey Chili” →

An accidental restaurant and an enduring soup: Balaban’s Chilled Cucumber Bisque

This rich, creamy chilled cucumber bisque is an elegant starter. Make it up to a day ahead to give it time to chill. Recipe below.

Balaban’s Chilled Cucumber Bisque

RECENT NEWS MADE MY FORMER-SAINT-LOUISAN-PERENNIAL-FOODLOVER HEART SKIP A BEAT: the restaurant Balaban’s is moving back to the city. And according to a press release, the new owner is bringing back its “original menu and signature dishes.” For Marion and me, that means this glorious soup. Continue reading “An accidental restaurant and an enduring soup: Balaban’s Chilled Cucumber Bisque” →