A pause, but not a silent one.

Forgive

WE’RE NOT SHARING A RECIPE THIS WEEK. You’re reading this post when you’re reading it, but we’re writing it on Tuesday, June 2, 2020. Eight days after the death of George Floyd. Right now, in these unprecedented—and many would say unpresidented—times, no one is thinking much about cooking. We’re thinking about safety. And justice. About something so broken for so long.

Take care of yourselves. Care about others—even, and maybe especially, those you don’t know. And may never know. Do what you can do to help, and be safe. We’ll be back next week.

Based on, based on, based on: Tuna White Bean Casserole

This twist on the classic comfort food tuna casserole swaps cannellini beans for pasta. The recipe, with many options and substitutions, below.

THIS IS AN ILLUSTRATION OF THE CONNECTEDNESS OF ALL THINGS. It’s based on a recipe in The New York Times by Melissa Clark, who in turn based her take on a recipe by London-based food writer Diana Henry, which in turn is a take on a French recipe, Breton tuna white bean gratin, which leads to that foundation stone of American home cooking, the tuna casserole. Continue reading “Based on, based on, based on: Tuna White Bean Casserole” →

Chicken with a side of history, substitutions allowed: Country Captain

A Southern Lowcountry curried chicken dating back to the 1800s welcomes variations and tastes comfortingly old-fashioned. Recipe below.

FOOD CHANGES, TASTES EVOLVE. Yes, there are some enduring classic dishes that will forever be made, but many have their moment, then fade from memory. I only heard of Country Captain recently, when I read about a baker in Savannah giving it a makeover as a salad. I immediately wanted to know more about the non-made-over original. Continue reading “Chicken with a side of history, substitutions allowed: Country Captain” →

Yes, that ridiculously easy, amazingly delicious bread: No-knead Bread

Five or six ingredients, including water, and no kneading, no fuss, produce a bread you’ll be happy to eat and proud to serve. Recipe—and a lively buttermilk variation—below.

HELLO. PRINCE AND PRINCESS OF PROCRASTINATION HERE, reporting from the land of quarantine. Finally, what? 14? years after Mark Bittman published the no-knead bread recipe in The New York Times, the single most popular recipe that paper has ever run, we’ve gotten around to making it. Continue reading “Yes, that ridiculously easy, amazingly delicious bread: No-knead Bread” →

Dressing for dinner and a good cause: Chicken Tomato Campanelle

A quick, improvised lunch of chicken, tomatoes and campanelle—little bells—cooked up in support of the Greater Chicago Food Depository’s LunchTime to End Hunger. Recipe and how to get involved below.

THE AD AGENCY WHERE I WORK likes to up the degree of difficulty—in fun ways, of course. So when our client the Greater Chicago Food Depository announced its LunchTime to End Hunger fundraiser, the agency challenged us to cook our own lunches and dress to match them. Challenge accepted. Continue reading “Dressing for dinner and a good cause: Chicken Tomato Campanelle” →

Fennel seed finesses Instant Pot Pork and Cabbage Stew

Pork, cabbage and potatoes create a hearty, peasanty stew; fennel seed subtly elevates it. Recipe below.

IT IS NOW DAY WHATEVER IN THE SHUTDOWN, and we are still self-isolating. I said three weeks ago that we hadn’t been inside any building that is not our house for some time. That remains true. We also have not eaten anything that was not cooked by one of us. I’m happy to report that we are okay with that. Continue reading “Fennel seed finesses Instant Pot Pork and Cabbage Stew” →

A little kimchi delivers big flavor in Instant Pot Country-Style Pork Ribs with Kimchi

A modest amount of kimchi has a big, delicious effect on boneless country-style pork ribs, and the Instant Pot makes it weeknight-quick. Recipe below.

I’VE NEVER BEEN A FAN OF TV COOKING CHALLENGES, those ridiculous shows in which contestants are given a handful of seemingly random ingredients and 45 minutes to turn it into something. But now, we are all living that show on a daily basis. Going into the kitchen, delving ever deeper into the fridge, the freezer, the pantry, trying to turn something, anything, into dinner. Continue reading “A little kimchi delivers big flavor in Instant Pot Country-Style Pork Ribs with Kimchi” →

Deliciously simple (simply delicious?) English Muffins

Turns out English Muffins are as easy to make as they are great to eat. You don’t even bake them—you cook them on your stovetop. Recipe below.

WHEN I UNDERSTOOD HOW EASY IT IS is to make English muffins, I regretted all the years in which I have never made them. The basic elements are few—flour, yeast, salt, buttermilk or yogurt. They have one hour-long rise and then a short ten-minute rest once they are shaped. You don’t even bake them—you cook them on the stovetop. And then you have these delicious things. Continue reading “Deliciously simple (simply delicious?) English Muffins” →

Life in the time of shuttered restaurants, long walks and embracing home cooking

Some thoughts on life and food right now, and five simple, comforting recipes.

Martin's Corner Chcago — Martin’s Corner Bar & Grill, Pilsen, Chicago

THE OTHER NIGHT ON OUR NEIGHBORHOOD WALK, Marion said two things she was missing most right now were us getting in the car and going to see one of our daughters—both live driving distance away—and the two of us going to some little place for cocktails and dinner. A place like Martin’s Corner. Continue reading “Life in the time of shuttered restaurants, long walks and embracing home cooking” →

Deconstructing a classic Polish dish: Unstuffed Cabbage

The hearty Polish dish Stuffed Cabbage is easier to make and just as delicious when you unstuff it. Recipe below.

SO HERE WE ALL ARE, STAYING IN, looking after each other by staying apart from each other. Hiding. Staying well, healing, hunkering down and making do with what we’ve got and just getting through it. Continue reading “Deconstructing a classic Polish dish: Unstuffed Cabbage” →