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Braised Chicken with Scallion Purée
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Braised Chicken with Scallion Purée

A base of coarsely puréed scallions and potatoes adds a rustic note to this hearty country dish with a French accent. Adapted from The Cook and the Gardener.
Course Main Course, Poultry
Cuisine French
Servings 4

Ingredients

For Terry’s doctored broth:

  • 3 cups low-sodium chicken broth
  • 1 cup dry white wine
  • 1 sprig fresh rosemary
  • 1 bay leaf
  • 1 clove garlic
  • 4 black peppercorns

For the chicken and scallion purée:

  • 1 tablespoon vegetable or olive oil
  • 8 pieces of chicken—4 drumsticks, 4 thighs
  • salt and freshly ground black pepper
  • 24 scallions, trimmed (leaving as much green as possible), sliced into 1/4-inch pieces, divided
  • 1/3 cup dry white wine
  • 2 medium to large potatoes (about 1 pound), peeled and cut into large chunks
  • 3 cups Terry’s doctored broth (or Hesser's spring stock or homemade chicken stock or water)
  • 3 tablespoons heavy cream

Instructions

  • Make the broth. Combine broth and 1 cup of wine in a medium stock pot and bring to a boil. While it’s heating, “bruise” the rosemary sprig by rolling a rolling pin or the side of a glass over it to release its flavorful oils. Add to pot. Lightly bash the garlic clove with the side of a knife, remove the skin and add garlic clove to pot, along with the bay leaf and peppercorns. When broth comes to a boil, reduce heat to low and simmer uncovered for about 15 minutes. Remove from heat and let it cool slightly, then strain into a bowl and discard solids. You should have about 3 cups of wonderfully fragrant broth.
  • Cook the chicken. Season chicken on both sides with salt and pepper. Heat a large lidded skillet over medium high flame [I used a 5-quart sauté pan]. Add oil to pan, then add chicken, skin side down and sauté until it is very brown, but not burned, about 10 minutes. Swirl the pan occasionally to make sure oil is in contact with all chicken to avoid scorching. Toward the end of the 10 minutes, reduce heat to medium. Turn chicken and scatter two-thirds of the sliced scallions over and around it [this is why you reduced the heat a moment ago, to not burn the scallions]. Brown second side of chicken for about 5 minutes.
  • Transfer chicken to a plate. Spread scallions around pan and cook for another minute or so. Add 1/3 cup of wine and stir, scraping up browned bits. Reduce wine by half. Return chicken to pan, along with any juices. Add potatoes and enough broth to come about two-thirds up the side of the chicken [if you don’t have enough broth, add water]. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat to low and simmer, partially covered, braising chicken for about 45 to 55 minutes, until potatoes are completely cooked.
  • Make the scallion purée. Heat oven to 175ºF. When chicken is done, transfer it to a plate and place in oven to keep warm. Strain the braising juices and reserve. Transfer potatoes and scallions to food processor and pulse a few times until potatoes are just crushed (as Hesser says, “pulsing any longer will turn the mixture into a starchy goo”). Remove blade from processor and stir in cream with a spatula. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Cover processor with dish towel to keep purée warm.
  • Transfer juices to sauce pan and reduce over high heat to a concentrated, highly flavored jus, about 1 cup of liquid. Lower heat to medium, add remaining sliced scallions and simmer until just wilted, 1 to 2 minutes.
  • To serve, spread purée on serving dish and top with chicken. Spoon some of the jus with scallions over chicken. Serve, passing the remaining jus and scallions separately. You can also plate individual servings.

Kitchen Notes

So, how was it? This is simple, honest country cooking, farm fare with a French accent. It was delicious and satisfying, but not as complex as many French dishes are. Green onions were a key player, of course, but in a good way. The barely cooked scallions in the jus added brightness and a nice crunch; the jus pooled beautifully on the plate, surrounding the purée. And on an April night with temperatures in the low 40s, the whole meal chased away the chill.
Hungry for more simple, hearty French fare? Check out our Layered Pot Roast with Anchovies, Capers and Garlic from Karin's first French cookbook recommendation, Backroad Bistros, Farmhouse Fare: A French Country Cookbook, or our Chicken with Lentils from the cookbook Bistro Chicken.