In Michigan, NIMBY trumps urban farming

Recent changes to Michigan’s 33-year-old Right to Farm Act exclude urban farms from protection.

When Michigan passed the Right to Farm Act back in 1981, it was designed to protect farmers from urban sprawl. As suburban development expanded into rural areas, the new residents—people with “limited understanding of farming,” as a Right to Farm Act FAQ sheet calls them—often found typical farming conditions, including dust, odors, animal noises and such, unacceptable. Sometimes, the interlopers would file nuisance suits against the farmers. Essentially, the law said this is how farming smells, sounds, looks and acts. It has a right to do so.

Over the last several years, the flow has reversed, with farming moving back to town. Increasingly, urban dwellers are raising vegetables, chickens and even goats in their backyards or on small plots of land. Some do so for their own consumption, wanting to reduce their reliance on factory-farmed foods. Some are entrepreneurs, producing small batch products to sell at farmers markets and other outlets. Late last month, the Michigan Commission of Agriculture and Rural Development put their right to do so in doubt. Continue reading “In Michigan, NIMBY trumps urban farming” →

Tasting a sense of place in French chèvre: Salad with Baked Goat Cheese

Disks of Crottin, a classic French goat cheese, are baked on buttery toasts, then placed atop a simple salad of mixed greens and Dijon mustard vinaigrette to produce a classic bistro dish. Recipe below.

Terroir, the idea that a “sense of place” flavors agricultural products, is most closely associated with wines. But increasingly, the term is being used with coffee, tea, chocolate, hops and, germane to this story, cheese.

We were recently asked to sample a number of French chèvres, cheeses made from goat’s milk, each produced in a different region. They beautifully illustrated for us just how deeply place is ingrained into French agriculture. And how complex the notion of terroir can be. Continue reading “Tasting a sense of place in French chèvre: Salad with Baked Goat Cheese” →

In Conversation: Gale Gand on dessert, simplifying things and her new book Lunch!

James Beard award-winning pastry chef Gale Gand talks about her new restaurant, her new cookbook and other red hot irons she has in the fire.

Gale Gand wears a lot of toques. A co-founding partner of Chicago’s Michelin-starred Tru, world-renowned for its contemporary French tasting menus, Gale hosted the Food Network series “Sweet Dreams” for eight years, the first nationally televised all-dessert show. She appears regularly on TV shows like“Good Morning America,” “The Today Show” and “The Rachael Ray Show.” She produces her own artisanal root beer, volunteers, teaches, speaks and does cooking demonstrations. Gale also lists “mom” in her description on her website; she and her environmentalist husband Jimmy Seidita have a teenaged son and twin daughters.

Most recently, Gale opened a burger joint, SpritzBurger, with the Hearty Boys, Dan Smith and Steve McDonagh. And her eighth cookbook, Gale Gand’s Lunch!, hits bookstores this week. It seemed like a good time to check in with her. Continue reading “In Conversation: Gale Gand on dessert, simplifying things and her new book Lunch!” →

Navarin d’Agneau: a French lamb stew for spring

Lamb Navarin combines lamb, peas, carrots, new potatoes and turnips for a spring stew that is hearty, but lighter tasting than beef stew. Recipe below.

MANY RECIPES HERE ARE INSPIRED BY COOKBOOKS. THIS ONE WAS INSPIRED BY A NOVEL. The World at Night is set mainly in Paris, in the early 1940s, during the time of German occupation. To call it a tale of intrigue and romance is accurate enough, but falls far short of doing it justice. Continue reading “Navarin d’Agneau: a French lamb stew for spring” →

Two cookbooks explore the art of cooking, with humor and poetry

Cooking Comically takes a comic book approach to presenting “recipes so easy you’ll actually make them.” A Commonplace Book of Pies redefines everything we thought we knew about pie through prose poems, humor and, yes, recipes.

We know we all need to cook more. Stuff we cook for ourselves is generally healthier and can save us money. There are many serious efforts out there to get us doing that. Here’s a refreshingly silly one that’s seriously effective. Tyler Capps, a freelance graphic artist and self-taught cook, started Cooking Comically as a website after an online comic strip recipe he created, “2 A.M. Chili,” went viral, racking up millions of views. And now it’s a cookbook. Continue reading “Two cookbooks explore the art of cooking, with humor and poetry” →

A quick, easy* spring lunch: Roasted Asparagus with Poached Eggs and Lardons

Roasted asparagus spears are topped with sautéed bacon and shallots and a poached egg for a light lunch. Recipe below.

Asparagus season is upon us again, a promising sign of the reluctant spring. (Yes, asparagus is available pretty much year-round, but now is when it’s at its best.) First, the pencil-thin spears started showing up in the produce department, requiring little more than a quick blanch to render them bright green, crisp and delicious. Continue reading “A quick, easy* spring lunch: Roasted Asparagus with Poached Eggs and Lardons” →

Top cheap cuts: five flavorful, budget-friendly meat choices

For many home cooks, meat takes the biggest bite out of the food budget. There are plenty of cheap cuts, though. Some require a little extra care to tenderize them (or acceptance of the fact that their extra fat is what makes them delicious as well as affordable), but all will reward you with big flavor while saving you money. Here are five cheap cuts we love.

Lamb Shoulder Chops

Lamb’s wonderfully rich flavor is often matched by its price tag. Not these guys. Lamb shoulder chops (like the one pictured above) deliver as much or more lamby goodness as pricier (and tinier) lamb rib or loin chops. And their sometimes chewy texture can be tenderized quickly with a citrus marinade or dry brining. They also respond well to braising. Continue reading “Top cheap cuts: five flavorful, budget-friendly meat choices” →

Pan-grilled Lemon Tarragon Lamb Chops, weeknight quick and naturally tender

A lemon juice/olive oil/tarragon marinade quickly tenderizes lamb shoulder chops and adds a lively citrus note. Recipe below.

Lamb is one of our favorite carnivorous pleasures. And shoulder lamb chops are one of our go-tos for scratching our occasional lamby itch. They’re typically one of the cheaper cuts, they cook quickly and they’re big on flavor. Unfortunately, they can also be chewy. The good news is there are simple techniques to tenderize these delicious chops. Continue reading “Pan-grilled Lemon Tarragon Lamb Chops, weeknight quick and naturally tender” →

Celebrating National Grilled Cheese Month with American cheeses expert Laura Werlin

April is National Grilled Cheese Month. Cheese cookbook author Laura Werlin shares her thoughts on the iconic comfort sandwich as well as tips for making great grilled cheese. And yes, she shares a recipe too.

Editor’s note: Blue Kitchen is now publishing twice weekly. Wednesdays, you’ll find fresh recipes. On Sundays, we share stories about food—new tools for the kitchen, cookbooks we like, interviews (like this one) and more. Subscribe to our RSS Feed or sign up for email updates, so you don’t miss a thing.

Laura Werlin is an ambassador for American cheeses and author of six cookbooks on the subject. She won the prestigious James Beard award for The All American Cheese and Wine Book, published in 2003. To celebrate National Grilled Cheese Month, we caught up with the San Francisco-based Werlin to talk about her favorite subject. Continue reading “Celebrating National Grilled Cheese Month with American cheeses expert Laura Werlin” →

Kids in the kitchen: French knife maker creates serious, safe cooking tools for young chefs

Opinel introduces Le Petit Chef Set, kid-friendly cooking tools that help teach proper kitchen skills. And Michelle Obama hosts a cooking contest for children. The prize is a Kids’ “State Dinner” at the White House.

As a nation, we need to be eating better. What am I saying? As a planet, we need to be eating better. Obesity and diet-related diseases are becoming worldwide health issues. In fact, obesity is second only to smoking as the leading preventable cause of death in the United States.

The best way to eat healthier, it turns out, is to cook at home. When we cook, we can control how much fat, cholesterol, sodium and sugar we’re consuming, especially if we use fresh ingredients as much as possible. And the best way to set our kids on the path to a lifetime of eating healthier is to get them cooking in the kitchen with us. Continue reading “Kids in the kitchen: French knife maker creates serious, safe cooking tools for young chefs” →