Shrimp, lots of garlic and a little heat: Gambas al Ajillo

The showstopping flavor of this popular Spanish tapas belies how easy it is to make. Recipe below.

WE OFTEN TALK ABOUT WHAT INSPIRES OUR COOKING. This dish began its circuitous route to our table with flamenco. Like pretty much everyone, we are seeking out performances online—music, dance, stand-up, anything—as live, in-person shows are still not happening. Most recently, we happened on flamenco performed in a narrow Spanish bar in Sevilla, Spain—and in the bar’s tiny kitchen and in the plaza in front of the bar. Continue reading “Shrimp, lots of garlic and a little heat: Gambas al Ajillo” →

Add versatile Sweet Potato Gnocchi to your Thanksgiving menu

Sweet potatoes give traditional potato gnocchi a naturally sweet twist. Here, they’re served with a kasha and shallot sauce. Two recipes below.

HERE COMES THANKSGIVING, AND THIS YEAR WE DON’T KNOW QUITE HOW THINGS WILL GO. Maybe, if everything goes well, the swabs the caution the distancing the results, we’ll have visitors, family! a full house, and a dinner table surrounded by loving faces. Or maybe it will be just us, for a while longer, with messages coming via email and text and a quiet, more reflective time, and brave personal portions, and the festivities conducted via cheerful Zooms. A lot of us, that is, still don’t know if we will be many or few, and the likeliest outcome will be: few. Continue reading “Add versatile Sweet Potato Gnocchi to your Thanksgiving menu” →

Inspirations from Detroit and Mexico: Beet Elote Salad

Based on two words from a restaurant menu and Mexican street food, Beet Elote Salad replaces corn with diced beets. Recipe below.

THE OTHER NIGHT I WAS POKING AROUND ON VARIOUS DETROIT WEBSITES and I thought to check out the website of Selden Standard. Several years ago, when we were spending most of our time in Detroit, Selden Standard became a place where I would go when I had a free evening and an appetite for a well-made, kind of rustic, kind of wonderful Midwestern-American dinner. Continue reading “Inspirations from Detroit and Mexico: Beet Elote Salad” →

What are you cooking for the 4th? 15 surprising recipe ideas

Tea-smoked Grilled Chicken with Star Anise & Orange

ANOTHER MAJOR FOOD HOLIDAY IS UPON US. Everywhere, magazines, emails, friends and online food sources are sharing recipes. Seemed like a good idea to us too. So good that when we checked our archives, we found we’d done a pretty bang up job a few years ago. Unexpected dishes, like this one, chicken tea-smoked with star anise and orange, then grilled. You’ll find this and 14 other surprising recipes, from grilling to appetizers, sides (including three potato salads) and desserts, right here. Have a great, delicious 4th.

An accidental restaurant and an enduring soup: Balaban’s Chilled Cucumber Bisque

This rich, creamy chilled cucumber bisque is an elegant starter. Make it up to a day ahead to give it time to chill. Recipe below.

RECENT NEWS MADE MY FORMER-SAINT-LOUISAN-PERENNIAL-FOODLOVER HEART SKIP A BEAT: the restaurant Balaban’s is moving back to the city. And according to a press release, the new owner is bringing back its “original menu and signature dishes.” For Marion and me, that means this glorious soup. Continue reading “An accidental restaurant and an enduring soup: Balaban’s Chilled Cucumber Bisque” →

Why Irish eyes are smiling: Colcannon

Potatoes, cabbage, leeks and plenty of butter cook into a humble-sounding, but luxuriously creamy traditional Irish favorite, colcannon. Recipe below.

WE LOVE POTATOES. WE LOVE CABBAGE. So how have we never heard of colcannon? Now, just in time for St. Patrick’s Day (a coincidence?), we have. The humble beginnings of colcannon, a traditional Irish dish of mashed potatoes and cabbage, belie its heavenly flavor. Continue reading “Why Irish eyes are smiling: Colcannon” →

A quick-cooking, show-stealing dish: Instant Pot Mexican Black Beans

In the Instant Pot, dried black beans and a handful of ingredients turn into a luxuriously delicious side or main course in 45 minutes, no presoaking, no sautéing, no fuss. Recipe below.

Instant Pot Mexican Black Beans

THE FIRST TIME I EVER HAD BLACK BEANS was in a tiny restaurant somewhere in upstate New York, in the form of black bean soup. I was ever so young and ever so inexperienced. I don’t remember anything about the restaurant except that it was small and friendly, and the windows looked out on hemlock trees, and our waiter, a tall, calm woman, was also the sole front of house person and likely the owner and possibly one of the cooks. Continue reading “A quick-cooking, show-stealing dish: Instant Pot Mexican Black Beans” →

Karaage: Chinese-style Japanese fried chicken

As popular as pizza in Japan, karaage is an ideal appetizer—chunks of chicken thigh marinated in soy sauce, sake, mirin and aromatics, then dipped in potato starch and quickly fried. Recipe below.

Karaage

[su_dropcap style=”flat”]W[/su_dropcap]hen we are in Detroit, which is every few weeks these days, we almost always find some reason/excuse to have dinner at Johnny Noodle King. This small, busy, fast-moving joint is always bustling and always full of all sorts of people who happily line up for a bowl of ramen, a nice drink and some terrific Japanese-inspired snacks. Continue reading “Karaage: Chinese-style Japanese fried chicken” →

Thanksgiving mash-up: six dishes to serve instead of (or alongside) mashed potatoes

Puréed Parsnips

DO YOU REALLY NEED STUFFING AND MASHED POTATOES with your turkey? Well, maybe. But here are six ways to update—or ditch—one holiday tradition. As a bonus, all these dishes can be made ahead and gently reheated. Continue reading “Thanksgiving mash-up: six dishes to serve instead of (or alongside) mashed potatoes” →

Making use of more of our garden’s bounty: Chinese Eggplant with Garlic Sauce

Regional variations of Chinese Eggplant with Garlic Sauce are a mainstay on countless Chinese restaurant menus. Here’s how to make it at home. Recipe below.

Chinese Eggplant with Garlic Sauce

[su_dropcap style=”flat”]I[/su_dropcap] have recently written—twice, mind you—about our prolific Romano bean plants. Our single eggplant, er, plant is giving the beans a run for their money, producing endless long, slender Asian eggplants and challenging us to find new ways to prepare them. Instead, I’ve opted for an old way, a classic Chinese dish. Continue reading “Making use of more of our garden’s bounty: Chinese Eggplant with Garlic Sauce” →