Chestnut Soup and memories of Paris

Chestnuts, potatoes, aromatics, butter, chicken stock and cream turn into a rich soup that stirs warm memories of Paris. Store-bought, vacuum-packed roasted chestnuts make it simple. Recipe below.

Chestnut Soup

The first time I encountered the chestnut vendors of Paris, on a cold November night walking down the Rue de Rivoli with my sister, I was hooked. To me, that has become one of the key Parisian experiences. The night street, thronged with Parisians heading home or to dinner or just having a stroll, the Algerian vendor, his neck wrapped in a knit scarf, the charcoal fire in a metal drum, the improvised metal plate that is the roasting surface, handing over my two euro to the vendor, who hands me a little newspaper cornet packed with fragrant, dark, freshly roasted chestnuts, then walking down the avenue, peeling the chestnuts one at a time, looking at the passing crowd, wondering what I will have to drink with dinner, being back in France. Continue reading “Chestnut Soup and memories of Paris” →

Everything but the bird: six super Thanksgiving sides (and some turkey alternatives)

A half dozen terrific side dishes to serve alongside your Thanksgiving turkey—and some ideas for skipping the turkey altogether.

Sweet Potato Vichyssoise

Other countries and cultures have celebrated thanksgivings at the end of harvest, but Thanksgiving with a capital T has become a uniquely American holiday. Some trace its roots back to 1621 and the Pilgrims and Puritans at Plymouth. George Washington, at the urging of Congress, made it an official national holiday, proclaiming a “Day of Publick Thanksgivin” in 1789. In 1863, Lincoln fixed its date as the last Thursday of November. Continue reading “Everything but the bird: six super Thanksgiving sides (and some turkey alternatives)” →

An easy, impressive Sunday roast: Roast Duck with Apples, Pears and Potatoes

A whole roasted duck is accompanied by apples, pears and potato wedges roasted in duck fat. Recipe below.

Roast Duck with Apples, Pears and Potatoes

THE COLD WEATHER IS GETTING ITS CLAWS INTO US. We are going out in down jackets, scarves and boots. In a fit of self-pity I even have taken out my coziest wool hat—the little wool cloche from Wildhagen that I usually reserve for the most desperate sub-zero days. The weather is having hostile spasms. The other day, going from the American Rhythm Center to Terry’s office on foot, I got caught in a sleet storm—mean tiny ice pellets flinging themselves into my face at 50 mph.  Reader, it hurt. Continue reading “An easy, impressive Sunday roast: Roast Duck with Apples, Pears and Potatoes” →

Taming but not extinguishing a powerful flavor: Linguine with Eggplant and Lamb

Linguine is topped with a hearty sauce of eggplant, ground lamb, crushed tomatoes, garlic, oregano and half and half. Recipe below.

Eggplant Lamb Pasta

In the 1939 film Tarzan Finds a Son, when Jane and Tarzan discover a baby in a plane crash, Jane insists that they must name him. The ever practical Tarzan says, “Him strong like elephant. We call him Elephant.” Jane, probably hoping for something more like Colin or Nigel, ultimately has to settle for Boy. Here in the United States, I think the eggplant must have suffered a similarly unimaginative fate: “It shaped like egg. We call it eggplant.” Continue reading “Taming but not extinguishing a powerful flavor: Linguine with Eggplant and Lamb” →

Savory with a subtle sweet touch: Braised Chicken with Prunes and Onions

This braised chicken dish combines prunes, onions, sage, bay leaf, garlic, apple juice and a little sherry vinegar for a delicious weeknight-quick meal. Recipe below.

Chicken with Prunes and Onions

Summer’s bounty has disappeared from produce shelves. Berries, apricots, peaches and plums have been supplanted by a sea of apples, pears and more apples. But in another section of the store, you’ll find many of your summer favorites in a long-lasting, shelf stable form: dried. When dried, apricots, grapes, plums and more provide chewy, flavor-intense snacks to be enjoyed as is. Add them to a savory braise, though, and they achieve a whole new level. They plump up and soften. Flavors mellow and blend. Continue reading “Savory with a subtle sweet touch: Braised Chicken with Prunes and Onions” →

Banana Pecan Bread and contemplating why good is apparently no longer good enough

This simple Banana Pecan Bread is perfect for baking—and sharing—on a chilly fall weekend. Recipe below.

Banana Pecan Bread

This bread wasn’t meant to be featured here. We just had some bananas on their way to becoming a science experiment. I’d planned to make my Mango Banana Bread, but balked at spending $1.99 for a mango at the supermarket. At the Mexican produce market in our neighborhood, where we usually find better prices, they’re currently $2.49! So I decided a simple banana bread with pecans would be good. And that got me thinking how good is somehow not good enough these days. Continue reading “Banana Pecan Bread and contemplating why good is apparently no longer good enough” →

Pork Chops with Mushrooms and Spinach, unstuffed

One-pan simple and weeknight-quick, pork chops are browned, then finished in a braise of mushrooms, spinach, onion, tarragon, garlic and lemon juice. Recipe below.

Pork Chops with Mushrooms and Spinach

We’ve been eating a lot of spinach lately. Sometimes in salads, but mostly quickly sautéed until just wilted with butter, olive oil, garlic and salt. Maybe a grind of pepper, if we remember. Eating spinach this way makes me sad that I spent my whole childhood hating it. So when I found myself with spinach, mushrooms and pork chops the other day, I thought they needed to get cooked together. Continue reading “Pork Chops with Mushrooms and Spinach, unstuffed” →

A simple corn stock adds a touch of sweetness to Fish and Corn Chowder

This hearty chowder, chock full of potatoes, corn, fish and bacon, gets a sweet note when corn stock stands in for fish stock. Recipes below.

Fish and Corn Chowder

In another life, I spent a lot of time in Nova Scotia, and various chowders were a happily regular part of my days. They would be based on whatever fish came in on the boats in the morning (often cod, hake or haddock) or whatever clams I dug, or even at particularly lavish moments, one or two lobsters. A fish stock made from the trimmings was usually the base. Everything would be completed with beautiful fresh local milk and butter. Continue reading “A simple corn stock adds a touch of sweetness to Fish and Corn Chowder” →

Serious flavor for cool temperatures: Braised Chicken with Artichokes and Olives

Bacon, marinated artichoke hearts, olives, garlic and lemon juice and zest combine with chicken drumsticks and thighs in this big-flavored braise. Recipe below.

Braised Chicken with Artichokes and Olives

WE TURNED ON THE HEAT FOR THE FIRST TIME this fall a few days ago. It’s been unseasonably cool lately in Chicago, and that has prompted complaints from some. Not from me. This is cooking weather for me—not just because it’s cooler in the kitchen, but because we can finally turn away from light summer fare and get back to the good stuff. Roasts. Stews. And robust braises like this one. Continue reading “Serious flavor for cool temperatures: Braised Chicken with Artichokes and Olives” →